Product Guide & Best Practices

Everything you need to know to get the best results with UF paints and mediums!

BEFORE YOU BEGIN

Wash your kit: Always wash vinyl kits with dish soap and warm water, then rinse well to remove manufacturing oils.

Use demineralised water: Tap water contains chemicals and minerals that may interact with paint and mediums. Only use demineralised water to mix or thin.

Shake products well! Many UF products can separate over time. Shake bottles thoroughly, then:
- Tap the bottom of the bottle on a flat surface.
- Crack the lid slightly to release air (especially after shipping).
- Reseal and let it settle before opening for use.

No Primer Required! Ultimate Fusion paints are designed to adhere directly to vinyl. Primers usually act as a "tooth" for paint to grip, but that means the paint is sticking to the primer, not the vinyl itself. Over time, this can potentially make your paintwork slightly less durable and more prone to rub marks, peeling, or damage. Vinyl is naturally porous, and UF paints are formulated to fuse with the surface (once fully cured), which results in a durable, lasting bond that won’t easily rub off.

*Some artists do successfully use primers with air-dry paints, especially if they’re used to that workflow and have perfected their sealing and varnishing. So, if you’re comfortable priming, you absolutely can just know it’s optional, not necessary.

TYPES OF ULTIMATE FUSION MEDIUMS

Antibead - A wetting agent used to stop paint from beading up on oily or slick vinyl (especially Bountiful Baby kits). After a few coats, the beading usually stops on its own.
This medium breaks the surface tension of the water in your mix, allowing for smooth, even application.

BlendFlow - Helps paint spread and blend smoothly, ideal for fine shading. Slows drying time slightly as well, so allow layers to dry fully before adding more to prevent lifting.

Texture Mediums - 3D Dewy Skin, Hair Texture, and Blister Lip all use a gel matte medium base. Each has different additives for gloss, translucency, or thickness. Apply with damp latex-free sponges or synthetic/nylon brushes. These can be applied thickly but do take care with large areas as they can become sticky. It's recommended to apply skin textures or large areas in layers.

*Add some matte extreme to the 3d dewey skin for large surface areas to help reduce stickiness. Alternatively a little matte varnish pounced over the top can also help reduce sheen and stickiness if still present after curing.

Eraser & EMR Tool - Alcohol-based remover for small corrections only. Use sparingly with gentle pressure to avoid removing too much paint or damaging surrounding paint.

Sealer - Use before applying other brands’ varnishes or paints. Acts as a barrier layer and protects against fading with built-in UV protection (polyurethane-based).

Varnish (Matte, Satin, Gloss) - Final protective coat. Use "as is" – if mixed with paint the effect will not be as intended. Apply neat, in two thin coats for optimal effect.

Matte Concentrate - Reduces shine in paint mixes only, ideally thicker mixes. Must be diluted (with water or paint), never use straight or too thick, or your work may become chalky or cloudy due to the concentrated silica components (the component that reduces shine).

Matte Extreme - Can be used as is or added to any mix (thin or thick). Has higher silica content along with binders for better matting power. Like the concentrate, thick layers may dry with a chalky finish.

* Matte mediums and varnishes create micro-textures. When water contacts these dried areas, it may briefly appear white due to light reflection. This is normal and disappears once dry.

Matte Varnish (coming soon)- A true final matte finish. Contains the highest level of silica matting agents and binders of any UF product. Leaves a soft, velvety, ultra-flat finish with virtually no shine. Do not dilute or mix. Use in thin, even coats to avoid cracking or flaking.

BEST PRACTICES

DO:

  • Wash your kit thoroughly before painting.
  • Use Antibead in early layers to prevent beading.
  • Wash hands before handling your work — or wear gloves.
  • Curing Times Matter! Full curing times will vary depending on temperature, humidity, and airflow, but here are some general guidelines to follow:
    - During a painting session, further layers can be applied once the kit is dry to touch.
    - Allow 24-72 hours to fully cure (especially important before rooting, assembling, or sealing in moisture-sensitive areas like noses and mouths)
    - When in doubt, give it extra time. Touch-dry doesn’t mean fully cured, and rushing can lead to lifting, peeling, or trapped moisture.
  • Store leftover mixes in small jars to reduce waste.
  • Clean brushes with UF brush cleaner to avoid buildup and specks.
  • Seal your work before you apply other non UF products.
  • You can apply airdry paints over heatseat after sealing the work and allowing that to curer.


DON'T:

  • Don’t use acetone for prep or stripping — it damages vinyl.
  • Don’t apply thick paint or medium layers (except texture mediums).
  • Don’t rush drying time with BlendFlow in the mix, let it cure!
  • When using thicker mixes, work in small sections to blend better and avoid patchiness.
  • Don't bake air dry paints as it can change the colour of your work.
  • Don't leave your work in hot environments or in direct sunlight. Vinyl is very susceptible to heat and the high temperatures can affect the integrity of the paint. This can can potentially cause smudging, rub marks, discolouring or damage.

Still Have Questions?

If you're unsure about how to use a product or troubleshoot an issue, reach out via Facebook groups for help and feedback. Happy painting!